Random Favorites: Fall/Winter 2010-2011

After a season, I tend to pick for myself some beloved pieces, either because they look good on runway, or because they look good in my wardrobe (no necessarily on my body, hmm~). 

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Start with Christian Dior. The 19th century equestrian clothing is not particularly my type but how Galliano presents featherweight leather makes me catch my breath. This very coat on Karlie Kloss is so lovely in the way its sleeves swing (of course thanks to the material it's made of). The nude georgette/chiffon gown on Viviane Orth brings a boudoir glow to me.

Because, no, I don't want to look Eskimo-esque (that's Yeti pants, mukluks and chunky furry coats included), I refuse extravagant pieces. Karl convinces me with almost every moderate look like ones with ties, the short dresses and of course, the bags. What can  be icier than an absolutely ice-like clutch ? And what can be more "pleasantly too much" of an offer than a Chanel double-flap-bag backpack ? (I mean, a fabulous arctic pack strolling down the campus is obviously humble ostentation :-P)

Though not fascinated by this season's creations (futuristic nunnery is the next-to-last thing I would ever want to see both on runway and in my closet), I have to admit that Pilati's new take on Yves Saint Laurent's Le Smoking has become my top-wanted. The black&white skirt is an adorable bonus to FW's origami heat.

 

I get driven crazy over everything that sings praises of the old-fashioned, sophisticated schoolgirls. European style. And this too. With high-starched collars with lace insets, Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti doesn't cease to amaze me. Dresses suggest the rigor of an ancient institution for elite little girls but with such length and material, they generate romance and modernity. These gowns seem ascetically pretty by judging the shape but looking closely shows how hiddenly charming they are. I would voluntarily wear them all the time, yes, all the time.

Move on. Move on. Move on. Because I'm spying my favorite material from Philosophy in Alberta Ferretti's namesake brand's FW creations - they ravish me with the independent femininity of the Ferretti's woman. The details ? Sparkling crystals planted in the neckline or sleeves or the whole body, satin trims, origami front.  The materials ? Fluttery chiffon, satin, shimmery feather, shimmery fur. The color ? Barely-there nuances, glowing black, powdery shades of old gold. The shape ? Fluid, body-con, slender. And the word ? Mesmerizing.

My final choice is the off-white long-sleeved on Freja, the gold satin on Keke, the nude with satin trims on Constance and the magical pastel with numerous crystals on Vlada.

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Part II | Runway Trend Report: Fall/Winter 2010-2011

Link to Part I

I. Shearling

(Shearling is actually another name for sheepskin, so it is a natural fabric which can differ in style and quality, depending on the sheep's origin as well as manufacturer). This material is making an invasive comeback to Fall/Winter with each designer playing her/his own march drum.. Burberry Prorsum showcases aviator jackets and parkas with exaggerated collars. "It all started when I looked at an aviator jacket in the archive. Then, as I started designing into it, I realized that could be as versatile as the trench - strong and sexy, masculine and feminine" said Christopher Bailey. Seemingly many other designers chose to follow Bailey's lead as the casually chic aviator jacket is all over the place: Barbara Bui, Paul and Joe, Wunderkind, Giles.... And while Celine presents decent all-over exterior shearling pieces, Jean gives you ultimate luxury through trench coats at the house of Hermès as to prove that his taste never puts a foot wrong. Rodarte does detailing with shearling on suede which is nothing but cheesy. For a rich bonus, shearling also goes to boots - the fashion-conscious footwear that urge you to get rid of Ugg: Kenzo, Burberry Prorsum, Paul and Joe... To widen your range of choice, check out Just Cavalli, Marc Jacobs, ADAM, Etro, Max Mara, Tommy Hilfiger and Antonio Marras.... Shearling is, in all probability, winning the must-have and loved-for-comfy award this season.

1,2,3. Burberry Prorsum | 4. Wunderkind | 5,6. Celine | 7,8. Hermès | 9. Kenzo | 10. Rodarte

II. Drop waist

Drop waist is a low, horizontal waistline that usually falls near the level of the upper hips. Balances the upper and lower bodies, and adds to the visual impression of height by lengthening the torso. Difficult to pull off but drop waist doesn't cease to become favorite. This waistline knows no border line: from medieval creations at Alexander McQueen to the Twiggy-ish 60s at Miu Miu to contemporary casual chic at Zac Posen and even to Karl Lagerfeld's futuristic set.

1. Alexander McQueen | 2. Miu Miu | 3. Karl Lagerfeld | 4. Zac Posen

III. Pencil Skirt

Since its birth at the house of Dior in the late 40s, pencil skirt has created a magnetic appeal everywhere it goes.  The body-conscious silhouette gifts its wearers utmost confidence. For Fall/Winter this mainstream fashion choice appears in a variety of looks: powerful with chinoserie top and navy double-breasted coat at Etro, quirkily charming with black leather bottom against white lacy blouse at Céline, officewear with matching suit jacket at Lanvin.  Alluring femininity is effortlessly blown into skirts presented by Nina Ricci, Dolce&Gabbana, Antonio Berardi and Aquiliano Rimondi. And while pencil skirt at Rucci does itself justice as a perfect piece for formal eveningwear, black liquid leather skirt is a fierce offer from Karl Lagerfeld as he soaked his runway with a futuristic vibe.

1. Etro | 2. Lanvin | 3. Chado Ralph Rucci | 4. Nina Ricci | 5. Karl Lagerfeld | 6. Dolce&Gabbana

IV. Structured Bag

I always knew that bags with structure will come back in glory some season (Hermès's Kelly has never felt so good). Capacity + elegance + appropriation is the formula for Fall/Winter bags.

1. Chloé | 2. Fendi | 3. Hermès | 4. Bottega Veneta | 5. Ralph Lauren | 6. Louis Vuitton | 7. Miu Miu | 8. Marni

V. Ton sur Ton

If you're into any color, buy pieces in every shade of it because this season, head-to-toe is how we love to wear colors. Tip for this trend is use variety of material - it sweeps away the infamous boredom of tone-on-tone. So here I picked some hits of the season: rosy blouse and red leather pants at Bottega Veneta; mustard turtleneck paired with dark brown coat and bag and shoes of the the same color to match at Salvatore Ferragamo; three different shades of blue on three different kinds of material at Oscar de la Renta; dark lapis and midnight navy on a slouchy silhouette for an unintellectualized charm presented at Yohji Yamamoto; excellent mix of material involved by houndstooth tweed, wool and flannel in icy gray-blue at Iceberg; purple and Tyrian purple on fluid ruffle-sleeved blouse and triangle pleated skirt at Brian Reyes; lovely neutral off-white and very pale gray for a cheerful offer from Sonia Rykiel and finally, literally head-to-toe red at Cerruti - from make-up to clothes to accessories, bag and even shoes. Matchy-matchy is no more underrated.

1. Bottega Veneta | 2. Salvatore Ferragamo | 3. Oscar de la Renta | 4. Yohji Yamamoto | 5. Iceberg | 6. Brian Reyes | 7. Sonia Rykiel | 8. Cerruti

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