The Pi of Fashion: August 2010

Link to Part I

I. Shearling

(Shearling is actually another name for sheepskin, so it is a natural fabric which can differ in style and quality, depending on the sheep's origin as well as manufacturer). This material is making an invasive comeback to Fall/Winter with each designer playing her/his own march drum.. Burberry Prorsum showcases aviator jackets and parkas with exaggerated collars. "It all started when I looked at an aviator jacket in the archive. Then, as I started designing into it, I realized that could be as versatile as the trench - strong and sexy, masculine and feminine" said Christopher Bailey. Seemingly many other designers chose to follow Bailey's lead as the casually chic aviator jacket is all over the place: Barbara Bui, Paul and Joe, Wunderkind, Giles.... And while Celine presents decent all-over exterior shearling pieces, Jean gives you ultimate luxury through trench coats at the house of Hermès as to prove that his taste never puts a foot wrong. Rodarte does detailing with shearling on suede which is nothing but cheesy. For a rich bonus, shearling also goes to boots - the fashion-conscious footwear that urge you to get rid of Ugg: Kenzo, Burberry Prorsum, Paul and Joe... To widen your range of choice, check out Just Cavalli, Marc Jacobs, ADAM, Etro, Max Mara, Tommy Hilfiger and Antonio Marras.... Shearling is, in all probability, winning the must-have and loved-for-comfy award this season.

II. Drop waist

Drop waist is a low, horizontal waistline that usually falls near the level of the upper hips. Balances the upper and lower bodies, and adds to the visual impression of height by lengthening the torso. Difficult to pull off but drop waist doesn't cease to become favorite. This waistline knows no border line: from medieval creations at Alexander McQueen to the Twiggy-ish 60s at Miu Miu to contemporary casual chic at Zac Posen and even to Karl Lagerfeld's futuristic set.

1. Alexander McQueen | 2. Miu Miu | 3. Karl Lagerfeld | 4. Zac Posen

III. Pencil Skirt

Since its birth at the house of Dior in the late 40s, pencil skirt has created a magnetic appeal everywhere it goes. The body-conscious silhouette gifts its wearers utmost confidence. For Fall/Winter this mainstream fashion choice appears in a variety of looks: powerful with chinoserie top and navy double-breasted coat at Etro, quirkily charming with black leather bottom against white lacy blouse at Céline, officewear with matching suit jacket at Lanvin. Alluring femininity is effortlessly blown into skirts presented by Nina Ricci, Dolce&Gabbana, Antonio Berardi and Aquiliano Rimondi. And while pencil skirt at Rucci does itself justice as a perfect piece for formal eveningwear, black liquid leather skirt is a fierce offer from Karl Lagerfeld as he soaked his runway with a futuristic vibe.

IV. Structured Bag

I always knew that bags with structure will come back in glory some season (Hermès's Kelly has never felt so good). Capacity + elegance + appropriation is the formula for Fall/Winter bags.

V. Ton sur Ton

If you're into any color, buy pieces in every shade of it because this season, head-to-toe is how we love to wear colors. Tip for this trend is use variety of material - it sweeps away the infamous boredom of tone-on-tone. So here I picked some hits of the season: rosy blouse and red leather pants at Bottega Veneta; mustard turtleneck paired with dark brown coat and bag and shoes of the the same color to match at Salvatore Ferragamo; three different shades of blue on three different kinds of material at Oscar de la Renta; dark lapis and midnight navy on a slouchy silhouette for an unintellectualized charm presented at Yohji Yamamoto; excellent mix of material involved by houndstooth tweed, wool and flannel in icy gray-blue at Iceberg; purple and Tyrian purple on fluid ruffle-sleeved blouse and triangle pleated skirt at Brian Reyes; lovely neutral off-white and very pale gray for a cheerful offer from Sonia Rykiel and finally, literally head-to-toe red at Cerruti - from make-up to clothes to accessories, bag and even shoes. Matchy-matchy is no more underrated.

190810

Float Ho

I. Black and Gold

The incomparable not-so-prim burgeois chic at Dolce&Gabbana can be seen through amazing dangling gold appliqués on long-sleeved onesies. Quintessential Baroque 'n' Roll at Balmain is made with the "Baroque" part going to splendor glittering gold on Versace-esque silhouetted minidresses. Roberto Cavalli opted for old-gold sewing on black pants so that appropriate ostentation got added to the whole boho-artiso feel while Moschino and Moschino Cheap and Chic made a nice effort to bring hardcore urban chic: studded leather suits, gold trim or glittering hemline.

1,2,3,4. Dolce&Gabbana | 5,6. Balmain | 7,8. Roberto Cavalli | 9. Moschino | 10. Moschino Cheap and Chic.

II. The Grey Flannel Suit:

The alluring yet mannish suit by Marc Jacobs and the infinitely classy one by Michael Kors drink the same source: they are the slouchy, relaxed variation on the 80s' woman. The silhouette differs at 3.1 Phillips Lim: collarless jacket and high-waisted trousers. Alexander Wang gives a slight grunge feeling with ab-baring jackets and thigh-high leg warmers.

1. Marc Jacobs | 2. Michael Kors | 3. 3.1 Phillip Lim | 4. Alexander Wang

III. Fur Boots and Mukluks:

Fashion and weather can be friends perfectly. Fur trend has crept its way down to our feet as you can see what we're all having here: very furry footwear. They vary from humble fur against suede at Thakoon and Roberto Cavalli...

1. Thakoon | 2. Roberto Cavalli | 3,4. Lanvin | 5,6. D&G | 7,8. Chanel

...to chic fierce fur on leather at Lanvin

While mukluks were traditionally made of materials like seal skin, today's versions are more often the all-over hairy kind. The trend doesn't stop there, it goes to skiing fun at D&G...

... and ends up landing at Chanel's extravagant faux fur parade on ice-like heels. The arctic madness is here !

IV. Whole-Sheer Top:

Not just revealing, tops from many designers this season are chest-visible and pose quite a challenge to even the most daring wearer. Collarless tops at Yves Saint Laurent, Sonia Rykiel or Alexander Wang. Turtlenecks at Celine, Pucci (Pucci's piece is even with decent embroidery). Bow-as-collar tops at Balmain and Antonio Berardi. Blouses at Antonio Marras and Aquascutum. . This trend does not necessarily stand in the "unwearable" zone. My suggestion for wearing this trend is a bustier or an unzipped jacket; brassiere is most likely to put you in a cheap look.