Hate the future of the present. Embrace the future of the past.
There hung an undoubtedly excited expectation in the air that Karl would do nothing less than costume-like designs (remember last season's Frankenstein's bride ?). Honestly speaking, I was one of them and, as a matter of fact, got left unawed after staying up really late till 3AM picking up photos uploaded live on tFS. Too much wearability for a Haute Couture collection ? I had been nodding "yes" until I dug deep and came to realize what was ultimately "Haute Couture" about Karl's creation "Under the Sign of Leo".
Among the first tweed pieces coming out, the pseudo-two-piece suits give me absolute love; they are pieces that look like a bolero-length, double-breasted top with a skirt but actually the top and the skirt are connected. This look on Pedaru puts a smile on my face: statement-making shape in humble dark wine red color, the length of skirt creating perfect neat look that clears the way for the bedhead hairdo.
Among the first tweed pieces coming out, the pseudo-two-piece suits give me absolute love; they are pieces that look like a bolero-length, double-breasted top with a skirt but actually the top and the skirt are connected. This look on Pedaru puts a smile on my face: statement-making shape in humble dark wine red color, the length of skirt creating perfect neat look that clears the way for the bedhead hairdo.
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Karmen Pedaru |
If there is a suit that can set me to fire, it must be this one. Burning color, rough bouclé tweed, sharp cut (the top's curved edge), tight collar, humble sleeves - edgy yet chic. Thing is, neat fur trim has never been my yay.
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Caroline Brasch Nielsen |
Houndstooth for this concept, let alone houndstooth in beige and black, was beyond my expectation. Isn't houndstooth too urban ? For some odd reason, I'm keen on the coat. Well-structured ? Of course. Balenciaga-esque ? I dare say.
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Lisanne de Jong |
Rounded sleeves also vary in volume. The volume reaches maximum in pieces that the shoulders are lowered and pleat is used to create extreme chunkiness. Check out this details in looks on Magdalena Frackowiak, Barbora Dvorakova, Siri Tollerod and Jac.
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Barbora Dvorakova |
Layer play in suits got weird to me this season when Karl put long-sleeved blouses of soft material under crop bouclé tweed jackets with elbow-length sleeves, both went with high-waisted flare skirts. Check this layer play in looks on Tati Cotliar, Sara Blomqvist and Sophie Srej.
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Sarah Blomqvist |
"The looks for moving around" as Karl said have managed to win my interest. Haute Couture by Chanel this season is not completely about wearing comfy but still, the wearability dominates, however with sophistication. Noticeable are pieces that open the "bolero-top-plus-bottom" series. First off with this one: symmetric shape in plain design, flare arms adding relaxation to the whole rigid block - it has a minimalistic hint in it that I can get.
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Denisa Dvorakova |
Double-breasted, statement collar, pussy bow. This look on Freja is classy, somewhat preppy to me and definitely "for moving around". Though I can't get its connection to Leo, I just love it for itself.
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Freja Beha Erichsen |
Keep moving on for three lovely beaded pieces on Anna Selezneva, So Young Kang and Liu Wen. The three pieces are not the same: Anna's crystal-trimmed camel dress is with geometric chevron pleat on it while So's and Liu's short flappers (ivory and pure white, respectively) get glamorously adorned with plenty of pearl chains, So's flapper has curved cuts on the side as to accentuate the tiny waist of the modernity-yearning sixties.
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